Travel: Marfa, Texas

I just came back from a long weekend in Marfa, Texas.  I loved the place!  Marfa is a small town in West Texas with about 2000 residents.  It is an art center – there are about 9 galleries and 3 museums there.  The last work by Andy Warhol (The Last Supper) is permanently installed in Marfa.  We also saw some great work from a local Marfa artist:  Julie Speed.  Speed moved to Marfa in 2006, where she has a studio downtown.  Speed said, “I keep hours just like a real job, only longer, and in my spare time I read books, drink tequila, garden, and drive around West Texas.”  To see more of her work, go to juliespeed.com.

Marfa is also a foodie town and we had some great meals.  We had great Italian food at Maiya’s and some of the best pizza we’ve ever eaten at Pizza Foundation (perfect crust!).  Most everyone agrees that some of the best food in Marfa is at Cochineal.  The 2 chefs had a Michelin rated restaurant in New York City, came to Marfa for a visit, and decided to stay.  Cochineal rotates their menu constantly based in part on what they are growing in their garden out back.  They offer small plates and large plates – we started with the homemade pate, and it was one of the best pates we’ve ever eaten.  A bold wine list has 250 selections in every price range.  For more info, go to cochinealmarfa.com.

Cochineal’s two star chefs:

 

 

Jackson Hole, Wyoming

I just had my first visit to Jackson Hole and it is now one of my favorite destinations in the world.  The natural beauty is breathtaking … there are bike paths everywhere, including on the highways.  The art scene is vibrant with a focus on western art, but some of it is quite contemporary.  There are scads of jewelry designers and my favorite piece was from a designer called Katie Diamond, who shows her work in Jackson Hole.   There is quite a sophisticated dining scene.  My favorite experience was dinner at Jennie Lake Lodge, where the only option is a 5 course meal with wine.  Here’s the menu … my choices are highlighted in bold.

Starters

• Butter Poached Lobster Tail
• Creamy Grits with Leeks, Shiraz Reduction
• Bacon & Egg
• House Smoked Glazed Pork Belly, Corn Meal Waffle, Huckleberry Banana Syrup
• Squash Blossom Duo
• Duxelle Stuffed, Angel Hair Zucchini, Roasted Tomato Emulsion
• Organic Quinoa “ Baklava”
• Port Poached Anjou Pear, Caramelized Grapes

 Soups

• Roasted Parsnip
• Gremolata, Bacon Lardons
• Chef’s Daily Creation

 Salads

• Haricots Verts
• Heirloom Tomato, Herbs, Yogurt Dressing
• Jenny Lake Signature
• Organic greens, dried tart cherries, glazed pecans, caramelized red onion vinaigrette

 Entrées

• Champagne – Extra Virgin Olive Oil Poached Halibut
• Lemon Grass scented Basmati Rice, Edamame Pea Ragout Black Olive Oil Emulsion
• Free Range Chicken Roulade
• Sun Dried Tomato, Organic Spinach, Mozzarella, Prosciutto, Creamy Mascarpone Polenta, Chasseur Sauce
• Juniper Scented Venison Loin
• Jerusalem Artichoke Puree, Brussels Sprout Leaves, Bacon, Red Currant Sauce
• Apple Cider Guajillo Chili Wyoming Beef Short Rib
• Celeriac Puree, Wild Mushroom Jus Lie, Sweet Potato Chips

The best thing was that there was no Starbucks but 2 independent coffee shops, and no Barnes & Noble, but 2 independent bookstores.

French Glamour …

French Glamour in NYC:  The Dior Suite at the St. Regis

Ooh La La … this is definitely Life As It Should Be ….

Re-blogged from hotelchicblog.com

The view of Central Park from the Dior Suite

To sample a little bit of Paris in New York, I checked out the revamped Dior Suite at the St. Regis in midtown Manhattan. The Dior Suite is one of two the hotel created in partnership with iconic brands (the other is the pretty Tiffany suite). The sophisticated design of the 12th floor Dior apartment is inspired by the fashion house’s chic ateliers in Paris. Set against the beautiful Beaux Arts landmark building built in 1904 by Jacob Astor, with stunning views of the park, it would be a very glamorous place to host a shindig, or stay for a few days. (sadly it’s not inexpensive, sigh). For those of you who love fashion and everything French there are many glam design ideas here. Read on for sources and how to get the look:

From the upholstery to the paint to the curtains to the rugs, touches of Dior Grey appear throughout the 1700 square foot space. The living room features custom Louis XVI style sofas and chairs made by Lily Jack in California and upholstered in Pashmina Silver Fox by Architex. Handwoven striped silk and cotton Delice pillows are from Lisa Fontana Rosa.

The amazing watercolor is artist tribute to Dior’s glam take on fashion and by artist Bil Donovan. The Dior Couture book with photographs by Patrick Demarchelier is ready for reading.

Love these gorgeous double tufted ottomans.

The view from the living room in the summer. Amazing.

The settee by the window is custom by California furniture manufacturer Lily Jack and upholstered in velvet in Cavallino Titanium from Architex.

Feminine and playful Alana Ivory and Taupe Wool Ottomans hail from Arteriors.

Attention is paid to every detail, these floral curtain tiebacks from Samuel & Sons add panache to the windows.
Gonzaga Floral Mirror from APH Munn  in the bedroom. Notice how the legs of the benches in the bedroom match the style of the ottomans in the living room.

The suite has one bedroom, living room, and a dining conference room which features a black and white fashion still from the original Dior Suite.

Hotel Zaza: Fab Fridays

The current special at Hotel Zaza Dallas is a good one.  The $199 rate includes a $50 credit at the restaurant or bar, free breakfast,  and free parking.  I will be staying there this Friday.

BEEN A LONG WEEK? STAY ZAZA FOR FAB FRIDAY’S WITH RATES STARTING AT $199! P A C K A G E   I N C L U D E S : – ZaZa Accommodations – Breakfast for Two – Complimentary Valet Parking – $50 Food & Beverage Credit *Valid each Friday Thru March 31, 2012

The Ultimate Travel Wardrobe

Town & Country Magazine published this list quite a few years ago, and I’ve kept it because it is so well done.  The slideshow also features some exquisite pieces to consider from the packing list:

http://www.townandcountrytravelmag.com/travel-tips/expert-advice/travel-packing-tips

The Well-Packed Suitcase

Never check a bag: How to carry on for your five-day trip.  

With no bags to check, you’re in control of a trip that combines business and pleasure. Yves Saint Laurent’s Easy tote and Louis Vuitton’s Damier Canvas Pégase 60 hold it all.

I never check a bag. As a result, my luggage is never lost and it always arrives at my destination at the same instant I do. Over the years I’ve saved hundreds of hours by avoiding the baggage carousel.

Rolling suitcases are easy to manage and, in fact, make very nice ottomans during airport waits. I’ve done seven days on the dressy Orient-Express and seventeen days adventuring in Costa Rica with just carry-ons, and I can promise that if you pack wisely, you will have all you need and want for a five-day city trip that involves business and pleasure.

The strategy for a carry-on-only trip also includes a tote bag with a zipper. It absorbs all my personal items for the flight, from iPod to paperbacks to pashmina. I take a couple of envelope purses (one is tucked in my suitcase; the other is in my tote), which take up minimal space and serve for dressier occasions. The other key rules are a simple color palette — neutrals, few prints — and clothes that do dual duty.

What to Bring

IN YOUR CARRY-ON

· 3 pairs of pants (two for business, one pair of jeans)

· 2 skirts

· 2 jackets (a lightweight blazer and a suit jacket that can be dressed up or down)

· 5 tops (three business, two casual, one of which is a white iron-free blouse)

· 1 white T-shirt, which can be worn under a jacket or at the gym

· 3 cashmere cardigans (one black, one cream, one in a bolder color)

· 1 dress for evening, business or pleasure (a simple shift works best)

· 2 or 3 scarves (they’re light and easy to pack)

· 3 pairs of shoes (pack two pairs — one comfortable pair for business, one for pleasure — and wear a pair of flats on the plane)

· 5 sets of underwear

· 5 pairs of socks, panty hose or tights

· A few pieces of distinctive (mostly inexpensive) jewelry, plus a small jewelry holder

· 1 or 2 envelope purses or clutches

· 1 mini umbrella

· Lightweight sleepwear

· Gym clothing (including yoga pants and packable athletic shoes)

· Lightweight stretch cord for easy exercises

· Chargers

· Converter (Tumi’s electric adapter is particularly versatile)

· First-aid/medical supplies (depending on your destination, consult the “Travelers’ Health Kit” list at cdc.gov/travel)

IN YOUR TOTE BAG

· Cosmetics kit, including liquids in a quart-sized plastic bag

· Comb and brush

· Prescriptions

· Personal electronics: laptop (optional, though one of the thinnest on the market is the Apple MacBook Air), BlackBerry, iPod, camera or iPhone

· Pashmina

· Paperbacks and magazines

· Travel wallet able to hold driver’s license, passport, credit cards, itinerary and airline tickets

· Glasses, sunglasses, contact case

WHAT TO WEAR ON THE PLANE

· Pair of black pants (microfiber is good because it doesn’t wrinkle)

· Cotton or cashmere top

· Suit jacket or cardigan

· Pair of flats

· Pashmina or cashmere stole

· Trench coat or lightweight parka

How to Pack

LAYER YOUR CLOTHES: First, pack the heaviest, most wrinkle-free items (pants, sweaters, jackets), then add the tops and lingerie.

FOLD CAREFULLY: Turn one jacket sleeve inside out. Tuck shoes into sides of bag. (For a packing demonstration, watch the video on modernbutlers.com.)

PACK LIQUIDS (no more than 3 oz each) in a one-quart ziplock plastic bag. Stow in your tote or an outside pocket of your carry-on to grab easily for security screening.

PROTECT ELECTRONICS that aren’t in your handbag or tote by putting them into socks nestled inside packed pairs of shoes. Put jewelry into a pouch, and if it’s good, further insulate it by placing the pouch amid socks or T-shirts in the center of your case. You could also carry jewelry in your tote or wear it.

IDENTIFY YOURSELF: Make sure there’s a brightly colored nametag on your luggage, even if it’s carry-on.

IDENTIFY YOUR BAG: If it’s basic black, add a jaunty decal (I love reproductions of 1930s travel posters) in case you have to check it.

MEASURE YOUR BAG: The carry-on rule is no more than 45 linear inches, a combination of height, width and depth. Most 18- or 20-inch-high suitcases that aren’t overstuffed will comply. The combined weight of your carry-on and personal items may be no more than 40 pounds. If you’re worried your luggage might weigh too much (the surcharge is $50 and up), the Balanzza Ergo digital luggage scale ($24.95; balanzza.com) will tell you (as will a digital bathroom scale). The best strategy is to start underweight so that you can shop at your destination.

Advanced Techniques

DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT TAKING…

• Linen or pleated clothes — wrinkle city
• A robe, a hair dryer or other items your hotel will have.
• Hardcover books. Instead, bring paperbacks and magazines or electronic books or mags.

LOCK IT UP

Several makers sell combination locks ($10-$20) that can be opened by the Transportation Security Administration if you have to check your luggage.

PREPARE FOR THE PAT-DOWN

• Remove jewelry.
• Wear slip-on shoes with socks (so that you don’t have to go barefoot on the airport floor).
• Put jackets and sweaters into your tote or carry-on.

ZIP THROUGH SECURITY

A high-tech card ($128 for the first year) using fingerprint and iris identification allows Clear members to take advantage of designated airport-security “fast lanes.”

LOUNGE LIZARDS

Priority Pass members gain access to more than 500 airport VIP lounges in 90 countries. Some premium (platinum) credit cards include membership. For $399 a year you can get a pass that allows unlimited visits (prioritypassusa.com).

WORKING OUT ON THE ROAD

For fitness buffs who want to maintain their regular workout routine while traveling, sneakers suck up a lot of room in a suitcase. Choose a lightweight, packable athletic shoe that can be used at the gym and for casual wear.  The easiest solution of all is to pack a lightweight stretch cord (available at most sporting-goods stores), which is perfect for doing toning exercises in your hotel room.

Advice From Frequent Fliers

“I pack an empty duffel bag inside my suitcase, and I always end up using it on the way back”

— Delphine Krakoff, interior designer

“Some of my secrets to traveling: I always fly at night, drink a ton of water and take two Emergen-C tablets as soon as I land. I like to take a huge, oversized cashmere scarf in my handbag and use it as a blanket on the plane. I also bring along a large leather envelope where I keep all my tear-outs from magazines that I read during my travels.”

— Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti, CEO and founder of Vivre

“Always pack one special evening piece. You don’t want to decline an interesting impromptu invitation just because you have nothing to wear. One spontaneous, glamorous night can make the trip memorable. Same principle for decent lingerie … you never know. Also, I am completely convinced that recycled dry-cleaning bags keep everything unwrinkled and pristine, even in a jammed suitcase.”

— Linda Fargo, senior vice president of women’s fashion at Bergdorf Goodman

36 Hours in Santa Barbara, California

I am planning 2012 trips and went to one of my fav travel columns, the New York Times “36 Hours in …..”.  This one features Santa Barbara:

RECOMMENDATIONS about what to do in Santa Barbara invariably include references to the celebrities who have settled along this beautiful stretch of California’s central coast. Want to take an afternoon hike? Head into the hills near Oprah’s house. Looking for a place to eat? Try the taqueria that Julia Child adored. Just 100 miles north of Los Angeles, this quiet beach community has long been a hideaway for celebrity heavyweights. But over the past few years, the city has also made room for a new downtown scene humming with cool shops and laid-back wine bars, mobile food trucks and casual restaurants. It’s Santa Barbara for every budget — whether you debarked from a private jet at the city’s new $63 million airport terminal or cruised into town off Highway 101.

Friday
4 p.m.
1. WATERFRONT RICHES

The Bellosguardo (Beautiful View) estate, on a bluff at the end of East Beach, is a sprawling property with a sublime location that belonged to the reclusive billionaire heiress Huguette Clark. When Ms. Clark died in May at the age of 104, she bequeathed her extensive fine arts collection so her mansion could be converted into a museum. Until it opens, content yourself with the oceanfront riches already available: the beaches. The area’s finest is Butterfly Beach, a secluded strip of golden sand by the Four Seasons Biltmore in the nearby enclave of Montecito.

7:30 p.m.
2. CALIFORNIA CUISINE

The talented young chef Justin West and his wife, Emma, run Julienne (138 East Canon Perdido; 805-845-6488; restaurantjulienne.com), a warm, inviting bistro that opened in 2008. The seasonal menu places a California-appropriate importance on ranch-raised meats and local seafood and produce, featuring pairings like beef-cheek ravioli topped with fava beans, and foie gras sandwiched between a peppered doughnut and strawberry-balsamic preserves. Try the house-made charcuterie and, for dessert, the nitro ice cream — the Peppermint Pattie flavor is a winner — made using liquid nitrogen. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, about $80.

10 p.m.
3. HIP SIPS

In the wacky neighborhood known as the Funk Zone, there are street poles wrapped with colorful knitted sleeves and street art murals enlivening tired industrial buildings. A string of new wineries and wine bars has also opened in the artsy area; one relaxed spot that stays open late is Municipal Winemakers (22 Anacapa Street; 805-931-6864; municipalwinemakers.com). In September this boutique producer moved into a garage-like space where the eclectic décor — a collection of old athletic trophies, a giant chandelier of glass bottles — reflects the fun, unpretentious vibe. Settle in around one of the communal tables with a glass of Dark Red (an earthy syrah and cabernet blend) or the aptly named Sweetness Sweet Riesling.

Saturday
9:30 a.m.
4. CHEESE, VINYL, THREADS

Lower State Street is flooded with chain stores and coffee shops, so do your shopping off the main strip. Start at C’est Cheese (825 Santa Barbara Street; 805-965-0318; cestcheese.com), a small cheese and specialty-foods shop where you can pick up tins of Pasolivo tangerine-infused olive oil while nibbling on a fragrant truffled grilled cheese sandwich. Then head around the corner to Warbler Records & Goods (131 East De La Guerra Street; 805-845-5862; warblerrecords.com) and flip through the racks of new and vintage vinyl. End your excursion at the Supply Room (1620 State Street; 805-963-1355; shopsupplyroom.com), a tiny shop that opened in September 2010 inside the Presidio Motel. From the collection of clothes, jewelry and accessories, you can pluck suede buckled booties, brass-and-enamel cuff bracelets and striped Mara Hoffman dresses.

Noon
5. MEXICALI FOODS

Everyone raves about La Super-Rica Taqueria (622 North Milpas Street; 805-963-4940), and for good reason: the tacos, quesadillas and tamales are delicious. But if you just want a tasty, authentic Mexican meal, there’s no need to wait in its tourist-packed line for an hour. Sneak down the road to Taqueria La Colmena (217 North Milpas Street; 805-845-6970), another inexpensive, no-frills spot where the handmade tortillas are fresh and the list of fillings long — try the lomito or cheesy rajas tacos ($1.65 for two). Load them with guacamole and scoops from the salsa bar, slurp some horchata and bop to the bubbly Mexican pop soundtrack.

1:30 p.m.
6. ON THE WINE TRAIL

To tour the Central Coast’s wine country, forget the car and set out on foot. A dozen wineries have banded together to form Santa Barbara’s Urban Wine Trail (urbanwinetrailsb.com), and most are within walking distance of downtown. Start with a tasting at Santa Barbara Winery (202 Anacapa Street; 805-963-3633; sbwinery.com), a pinot noir pioneer and the city’s oldest winery. Then hop over to Kunin Wines (28 Anacapa Street; 805-963-9633; kuninwines.com), where sauvignon blanc from Happy Canyon and fruity Santa Barbara County syrah are poured inside a sunny cottage a block from the beach. Make the last stop a new spot that’s not on the official trail: the Deep Sea Tasting Room (217 Stearns Wharf; 805-618-1185; deepseatastingroom.com) recently opened on the main pier in a stylish second-story space with views of the beach, city and mountains beyond.

4 p.m.
7. TABLET ART

Walk off the wine buzz with a stroll up State Street to the Santa Barbara Museum of Art (1130 State Street; 805-963-4364; sbma.net), a modest museum with intimate, engaging exhibits. There are only 19 paintings in the current Cubism exhibition, “Picasso and Braque: The Cubist Experiment, 1910-1912,” but an interactive app on iPads (which the museum lends freely to visitors) augments the experience, providing historical context with a scrolling timeline and illuminating stylistic idiosyncrasies via side-by-side digital reproductions of the exhibit’s paintings. The show runs through Jan. 8, 2012.

7 p.m.
8. DINNER AT THE DRIVE-IN

Hunt down the bright yellow Burger Bus (theburgerbus.com, or follow on Twitter @TheBurgerBus), a retrofitted mini school bus that has been roaming the streets and serving grass-fed, hormone-free burgers since May 2009. Get the CB&J — a huge, juicy patty topped with cheese, grilled onions and jelly on a ciabatta roll ($7.50) — and a side of yam fries ($2.50). Then you can take your dinner to the movies at the West Wind Drive-In (907 South Kellogg Avenue, Goleta; 805-964-9050;westwinddriveins.com). Cinephiles of any age can enjoy this ’60s-era classic, which reopened in 2010 after a 19-year closure. Expect a double feature and a dose of nostalgia.

11:30 p.m.
9. NIGHT OWL NIBBLES

Late at night, State Street is a veritable zoo with inebriated college students gyrating in the windows of thumping clubs and bars. But even sober night owls searching for a midnight snack line up for the outstanding Asian-influenced street food at the Blue Owl (425 State Street; 805-705-0991; theblueowlsantabarbara.com). Operating out of the restaurant Zen Yai, this year-old pop-up spot is open for only three hours (11:30 p.m. to 2:30 a.m.), three nights a week. Try the luscious tri-tip sandwich with tangy oyster-chili mayo ($8) or the flaky banana roti oozing with sweet condensed milk ($6), and then call it a (great) night.

Sunday
10 a.m.
10. BREAKFAST QUEEN

Fuel up for an active afternoon with breakfast at Jeannine’s (3607 State Street; 805-687-8701; jeannines.com). The upper State Street location has a cozy cafe atmosphere with marble-topped tables and a tempting display of fresh pastries behind the wide glass counter. Order the fluffy California omelet with tomatoes, cheese and avocado ($10.95) or go for broke calorically with the banana French toast made with challah bread sautéed to a sweet, sticky crisp in Kahlua, brown sugar and butter ($11.95).

Noon
11. THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Dozens of hiking trails of varying difficulty zigzag around the area. For a sweat-free trek with ocean vistas, stroll around the tranquil Douglas Family Preserve, on a mesa above Arroyo Burro Beach. Or work harder for your views on the 1.8-mile Cold Spring loop trail in the mountains behind Montecito off Mountain Drive. Start at the trailhead on the east side of the creek (look for the wooden sign), and climb over gurgling streams and through quiet, brush-covered hills. Don’t miss the short detour to Vista Point for a stellar panorama of Santa Barbara’s glittering coastline.